Apr
22
2009
Vancouver - 15 May, Day 4.
Woke at 8, slept in ’til 9, before braving the showers. Two separate knobs that seem to have no relation to the constantly changing stream of boiling hot or sub zero water being sprayed over you. I think it may not be a shower at all, but instead some cunningly disguised instrument of torture, with myself an unwitting contestant on some Japanese game show.
Good hearty breakfast and coffee at the Cambie, cheap with the discount card. Canadians can really make good coffee, offering three different kinds with breakfast.
After breakfast, off to do the tourist thing, see the sights, photograph them, and see what there is to amuse a lone backpacker in these parts.
Walked downtown to Stanley Park, somewhere I’d been before with my family on holiday. Beautiful massive park surrounded by the sea at the tip of central Vancouver. Took some photos of the totem poles. Sat on a bench overlooking North Vancouver and started a poem in response to a book of poetry, entitled ‘Bone Flames’, that I’d picked up in a second hand book shop in Seattle.
Linky - just in case you’d like to read it.
Very good intentions to create a poetry/prose book with pieces from the places I visit (obviously unfinished, but several can be found on the Other blog.)
Sat on the grass, enjoying the sunshine and sea breeze with my top, shoes, and socks off. Wanted to tell all the joggers, cyclists, skaters to stop their sweating and take some time to appreciate what’s around them. There’s a lot to be said for just sitting still, and watching, and appreciating the world around you.
Somehow managed to lose my camera, with all my photos from Seattle on. Most vexing. Must have left it on a bench after taking some snaps. Got a minute’s walk away, realised and went back for it. Camera gone, but a very pleased looking tramp walking off into the distance. Called all over seeing if it had been handed in, but no luck. Apparently tramps aren’t that altruistic.
Few beers at the Cambie in the evening, then at the Steamworks. Got talking to another Thomas, this time a kid few years younger than myself from Brazil. Odd guy, very needy, gave me his number. Dropped it in the bin on my way out.
Spent the night relaxing in the dorm with my Irish stoner, watching Dylan Moran on his laptop. Got an earlish night but got rudely awoken by two drunks from the bar who had paid for a bed when they realised they were too drunk to walk home. Both huge fat bastards, both taking the two top bunks. The one above spent an hour masturbating frantically, shaking the whole bed before falling asleep and the other had the worst snore I’ve ever heard. It sounded like a cross between a man chocking to death and someone gargling with jelly. Neither me nor the Irish fella slept a wink and not even kicking the mattress from below could stop the disgusting noise.
no comments | tags: cambie, hostel, stanley park, Vancouver | posted in Uncategorized
Apr
22
2009
Seattle (US) to Vancouver (CA) - 14 May, Day 3.
Groggy start to the day. Had booked tickets on the Greyhound to take my sorry arse north of the border to Vancouver, Canada. This was about where my forward planning for the trip comes to the end. Winging it from here on it.
Had a good lunch at a Vietnamese place, got taught how to shake hands in Ghana by a school teacher.
Greyhound was mercifully pretty comfortable, only about 6 people on board. Read a book or stared out the window most the way. Canadian customs officers where very civilised, didn’t make you feel like a terrorist like the US.
Got off at the Greyhound station in Vancouver (somewhere I was to get to know well) and could see the city centre in the distance but didn’t fancy walking with a backpack that weighed about as much as I did. Instead I got the Skytrain, after spending several minutes working out how to pay for it.
Had to wander around for a bit to get my bearings. Luckily in US and Canada all streets are on a block system and nice and straight unlike here in the UK. Once you can find two parallel street names on your rubbish Google map and work out which way is east and which west from the sun, then you can find your way anywhere in an American or Canadian city.
Vancouver is very impressive, all bronze coloured skyscrapers and soaring buildings.
Eventually slugged my way to American Backpackers Hostel, a $10 a night place, swearing my backpack getting steadily heavier. Got there, climbed the steps and saw it was as dirty as a dollar hooker, stank of weed and had nobody on the desk but plenty of signs warning against fleas. Walked straight back out and headed for the Cambie.
The Cambie (300 Cambie Street) is a bar/grill/bakery/hostel right in the centre of the area known as Gastown. For that $10 extra over the AmBackpackers, you get mixed sex 4 bed dorms, discount on breakfast from the grill or bakery, clean showers, an Irish roomate and a safe hostel instead of a flea infested rape pit.
Had a few pints of Canadian beer and one of the Cambie’s massive burgers for dinner at the bar while watching the Detroit / Dallas Ice Hockey game. Finally feel like I’ve arrived in Canada.
Canada doesn’t like smokers. Packets kept behind a curtain in shops and you’re not allowed to smoke inside or within 2 meters of a doorway or window. Bit ironic considering the same shop is able to sell bongs, knives, and weed pipes in the window.
Went to bed after a post dinner walk, jet lag catching up slowly. Only have to share the 4 bed dorm with one other dude, likable Irish chap I could just about understand who smoked a few joints out the window and fell asleep with the intro to the Father Ted DVD playing endlessly on his laptop. Had to listen to the same three Father Ted catch phrases repeated hundreds of times before they eventually lulled me to sleep.
no comments | tags: cambie, greyhound, hostel, Seattle, Vancouver | posted in Uncategorized
Apr
22
2009
Woke up at 6am, after only 4 hours sleep, because it was still 2pm for me on English time. Jet lag not yet causing problems, liberal amounts of whisky and fruit seems to do the trick.
Weather: Greyish, a little cool, but good.
Hostel is opposite the Open Public Market, oldest of its kind in US - little slice of American history right there. Seattle is quiet but clean and new, lots of new building jutting into the sky wherever you look, modern and attractive.
Seattle isn’t really a tourist city, especially now it’s started to rain. Apart from the entertaining Pike Place Market there isn’t much to see. At Pike Place is the Pike Place Fish Co. something I’d bizarrely already seen in a Haterose training video. They tend to yell things like “Ooooneeeeaaa craaaab!” a lot and make a point of always throwing the fish at each other and customers. You want some fish then they hand you a sheet of paper and yell “go long”. Whether you catch your fish or not is down to how fast your reflexes are. Stopped to chat to them about having seen them on video. Guy wasn’t very interested, either because I wasn’t talking about fish tossing or because the strain of fame had already become dull to him.
Lunch at the PP bar and grill.
Now I remember why I don’t get up early, it makes the day too damn long. Seattle is a strange place, apart from coffee houses nowhere is open before 10 am.
Free dinner at the Green Tortoise Hostel - fantastic tacos. Afterwards everyone goes to a bar. ‘The Central’, a rock joint that did pints of beer for a dollar. When I say beer I should say that I mean lager. Canada doesn’t do ale, and when it does it’s fizzy. Fizzy! Went with the guide Alesha, 2 English guys, James and Liam, 1 Canadian girl Anne and 1 Aussie Dustin, whose lack in stature was more than made up for in the rate at which he could talk. Drank quite a lot, listened to two good bands, one called Punishment Fort who gave me a free cd, and had an ex military diamond miner from Alaska try and rip my arm off unsuccessfully. No flies on me buddy, better luck next time.
Afterwards went to a swish but empty club for posh cocktails, had a long talk with a homeless guy about the blues and went back to my dorm to crash.
no comments | tags: green tortoise, hostel, Seattle | posted in Uncategorized
Apr
22
2009
This is all going to be a much abbreviated version of my Canadian Travel Diary, partly because much of it is only of interest to myself, and partly because the full version would involve a hell of a lot of typing. If the days, dates, and activities don’t quite match up it’s because I’m useless at keeping such things in order.
And so it begins.
England to Seattle - 12 May, Day 1.
Airport: after rigorous security check (was I really going to hide a bomb in my belt?) first things first, pub! Last pint of real ale for 3 months, chased down with a lovely Laiphraig. Looking out the windows at the fat planes on the runway sets me thinking of the sheer impossibility that these giant metal tubes can actually fly. Nerves setting in, requires several more beers.
Travelling 4800 miles from home inside a metal tube can be surprisingly manageable when the food is good and the whisky and wine is free. Had lots of leg room, but balanced against the responsibility of opening the emergency door and thus having the lives of everyone on the plane in my hands. After more wine this seemed a reasonable compromise.
Economy seats ergonomically designed to be impossible to sleep in for anyone over 4 foot 5 inches. Coffee, torturous seating and 20 hours continuous sunlight tends to give one insomnia.
Allowed into US after filling out a form stating I was not a terrorist, drug dealer, spy, convicted of any moral turpitude or, bizarrely enough, carrying snails. Oh, if only they knew. Got photographed and biometrically scanned. Fascists.
Strange country, strange city, and the first thing I have to do is work out which bus I need. I can’t even do that in England. Only map I have is a print out from Google, next to useless.
First impression of Seattle - everyone is damned friendly. No change for bus, so driver let me ride free. Got chatting to some guy going by the name of Thomas when he heard my accent (accent, what accent? It’s you who has the accent buddy). He showed me where my hostel was and took me out to show me the town and the best whisky joints. All very friendly. Talked ever more deeply about politics, national divides, and oil wars as the whisky ran freely. Said we’d see each other the next day maybe, a promise I had no intention of keeping.
Very different drinking culture out here. Mostly run on tabs, no measures, very liberal pouring, and of course, tipping. Most people here have never tried cider. Strange country.
Stayed at the Green Tortoise Hostel. Good place. $25 a night, lockers, free breakfast. Relaxed atmosphere. Slept in a room with 6 other guys, something I am going to have to get used to. Bed 2 foot too small but comfortable anyway.
no comments | tags: green tortoise, hostel, Seattle, whisky | posted in Uncategorized